Apparatus for preshaping shoe upper material



Oct 13, 1936. B, s sTElNER 2,056,987

APPARATUS FOR PRESHAPING SHOE UPPER MATERIAL Filed NOV. 2, 1934 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 c/enior' R' f7 72627d5, 15%

Oct. 13, 1936. Y B. s. STEINER APPARATUS FOR PRESHAPING SHOE UPPER MATERIAL Fil ed Nov. 2, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Oct. 13, '1936. YB. SASTEINER ,0 7

APPARATUS FOR PRESHAPING SHOE UPPER MATERIAL Filed Nov. 2, 1934 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 m y w m N Patented Oct. 13, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE r APPARATUS FOR- PR-ESHAPING SHOE UPPER MATERIAL Bernard S. Steiner, Kirksville, Mo., assignor to The Peerless Machinery Company, Boston,

13 Claims.

This invention pertains to shoe manufacture and relates more particularly to an improved method of and apparatus for use in preshaping a portion of the shoe upper, for example, the

heel portion of the quarter lining, preparatory to lasting, whereby to facilitate the pulling-over and lasting operations and to produce a shoe of high quality.

While the method and apparatus herein described are of broader utility and might, for example, be employed in preshaping any of the constituent parts of a shoe upper, inclusive of the heel, toe and other parts, and doubtless for other purposes, I have herein chosen to disclose 15 it with particular reference to its applicability to the preshaping of the quarter lining of the shoe.

According to usual practice, the rear or heel end of a shoe last is of convex curvature, bulging rearwardly to a substantial extent between its lower (or heel seat) edge and its upper edge. Since the quarter lining is cut from substantially flat or sheet-like material, for instance cloth or leather, it has heretofore been necessary, in pulling the upper over the last or in the subsequent heel-seat lasting operation, to apply a severe stretching stress to the rear end of the upper, including the lining, so as to cause it to conform to the bulge of the last.

Ordinarily the quarters of the upper proper, (that is to say, the outer element of the upper with its attached doubler, if any) are united by a seam which is located substantially at the center line of the rear or heel end of the shoe, and by cutting the meeting edges of these two quarters to a suitable curvature, it is possible, to some extent at least, to preshape the heel end of the upper proper so as more or less to conform to the bulge of the last. Thus in pulling over and lasting the upper proper, it is not necessary to impose a damaging strain upon the material. However, it is customaryin making shoes of the better grades, at least, and in order to avoid an undue ridge or rib at the heel end 45 of the shoe, to make the quarter lining of a single piece or, if of more than one piece, to

arrange the seam or seams uniting the several parts so that such seam or seams is or are disposed on one or both sides of the center line of 50 the heel end of the upper. in this way registry of the lining seam with the seam in the upper proper is avoided. 7

While in theory this method vof procedure should make a shoe more comfortable tothe wearer than though the seams were in registry with one another, it is obvious that it precludes the preshaping of the rear end of the lining in cutting the parts so that the rear or heel end of the lining is normally devoid of any bulge or outward curvature. In consequence, so great a pulling stress is required in pulling over the upper, or, in heel-seat lasting, in order effectively to conform the lining to the last, that many shoes are damaged in this operation, and at best the lining never conforms as it should to the last, and tends to sag and Wrinkle when in use, to the annoyance and discomfort of the wearer. In accordance with the present invention I preshape the rear end of the lining, at some point in the operation prior to the pulling over of the upper,preferably before the lining is united to the other parts of the upper. In thus preshaping the heel end of the lining I cause the material at this point to be so stretched as to form a large dimple or concavity at its inner face which approximates the curvature of the rear end of the last. Thus in pulling over, far less strain is necessary to conform the lining to the last than is required in the ordinary process. While this step of preforming the lining is particularly useful in lasting shoes wherein the quarter lining is devoid of a seam or has the seam or seams laterally offset from the center line of the heel, I contemplate its usefulness in the manufacture of cheaper grades of shoes having the quarter linings seamed at the center of the heel, since it helps properly to shape such Zlining, even if the lining has been cut to provide some degree of curvature at this point.

For carrying my process into effect I provide mechanism of a simple and efficient type, preferably comprising what in efiect is a hollow die into which the heel end of the lining is forced and stretched by the application of an appropriately shaped plunger member. Preferably the die or the plunger or both is or are heated to a predetermined temperature and the plunger .is so actuated by appropriate mechanism that, after it has forced the material of the lining into the die cavity, it dwells or remains stationary for a predetermined period so that the lining material acquires a permanent set in its stretched position. V 7

After the completion of. this stretching operation, the lining bulges rearwardly at the heel end, providing a large dimple or cavity in its inner surface adapted to conformmore or less closely to the rear surface of the last. When the upper, having the preformed lining, is assembled with the insole on the last and pulled over, little difliculty is experienced in pulling and lasting it snugly about the rear end of the last.

In following usual modes of procedure, an air pocket is sometimes formed behind the lining at the heel of the shoe, due to the failure ofv the lining to stretch so as to conform to the curvature of the last. When such an air pocket is formed. the lining is left loose and does n'ot'fit nor. wear 7 well. The present invention prevents formation of such air pockets behind the lining, and in the completed shoe the lining shows substantially no tendency to sag or develop wrinkles. 7 I In accordance with the present invention preferably provide a hollow die of a type which.

readily accommodates itself to differences or in-. equalities in the thickness of the liningmaterial,

V and to cooperate with this die I employ a plunger so shaped as to avoid cutting or 'abrading' the surface of the lining'material when the latteris forced into the cavity of the hollow die. This plunger is of such contour as,'in cooperation with the walls of the die, to stretch the lining ma terial'and impartthe desired fullness at the heel 'portion of the latter. To enhance the stretching and shaping of the lining material I contemplate the provision of presser feet or equivalent clamp- Hing :devices operative to hold the material at The machinev also com'prises'mechanism, as for example a cam, for actuating the plunger so that after it hasbeen advanced into the die it remains stationary for a predetermined period, for in-' stance two seconds, and is then quickly retracted to leave the die free for removal of. the work and insertion of a new pie'ce.

In the accompanying drawings in which I have illustrated one desirable embodiment of the in,- vention by way of example,

Fig.1 is a front elevation of the machine;

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation'of the machine Fig. 3 is a side elevation with certain partsin vertical's'ection, substantially on the line 33 of Fig. MS a fragmentary vertical section, to larger scale, substantially on. the line 4-4 of Fig.3;

' Fig. 5 is a fragmentary vertical section looking from the right-hand side 'of the machine and with the flywheel removed, showing details ofthe clutch mechanism; 7

a Fig. 6 is a plan'view, to small scale,showing a one-piece quarter lining before it has been embossed .or indented; Y a

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary side view of the quarter lining folded and showing the heel portion with the bulge or dimple therein as produced in accordance with the present method; and

Fig. 8 is a horizontal section, to small scale, illustrating a modified form'of plunger and die.

Referring to the drawings, the machine isillustrated as comprising a base I (Fig. 2) "adapted' to be bolted to a suitabletabl e, bench or thelike,

such base being provided with a pair of substantially parallel upright members 2 and 3. These upright members are provided with bosses having aligned bearing openings for a maindrive shaft 4 whichfprojects'at the right-hand side of the machine and'is there furnished witha pulley and a forwardly directed arm 2|.

release surface 21 lever arm 20 tends to hold the cam follower roll Q24 constantly'in engagement with the periphery or fly-wheel 5. This pulley is normally loose on the shaft but may be connected thereto for driving the latter by means of a one-revolution clutch 6 of any usual type. Clutches of this general type are commonly used in punch presses and similar mechanisms where it is desired to have the machine go through a single cycle of operations and then stop. Since such clutches are well known and since the clutch forms no essential.

member I and through an aligned guide opening in a bracket 8 projecting from the right-hand frame member. The upper end-of this rodeo by means of a trea'dle-actuated rod 1 (Fig. 5) V which passes up through an opening in the baseoperates'with a pin 9 forming the release elenected, thereby to transmit motion from the pulley to the drive shaft 4. A rod I0, also guidedin the opening in the base member I and near its upper end in a bracket I2 projecting from the right-hand frame member 2, is fixedly united to the rod I by means :of a bracket I I beneath which a coil spring II encircles the rod 7 andnormally acts to lift'the rod I into position to release. the clutch drive elements. The upper end of the rod I0 cooperates with a positive stop cam I3 having a stop shoulder I 4.and fixed to the shaft I5. When the upper 'endlof the rod I0 engages the shoulderM the shaft I5 is positively stopped in predetermined position.

The shaft I5 (Fig. 2) is journaled in'bearing bosses carried by the frame members 2 and 3 and carries agear I6 whichmeshes with a pinion I1 fixed to theshaft 4. The gear I6 is of consider ably larger diameter than the pinion I1, for example, having a four-to-one ratio to the latter so that the shaft I5 is driven at'a relatively low speed. I

A shaft I8, at the upper forward part of the machine, is journaled to turnin .bearing bosses I9(Fig. 1) projecting inwardly from the frame members 2 and 3. This'shaft I8 supports a lever (Fig. 3) comprising a rearwardly directed arm 20 bifurcatedat its rear part to provide spaced lugs 22 which support a shaft 23 on which is mounted 'a cam follower roll 24 which engages the periphery of a cam 25 fixed to the shaft I5.

preferably of substantially more than extent, with a plunger actuating, face 21 and a A spring 20 secured to the of the cam725. The forward arm of the lever 2I (Fig. 3) is provided with a pin 28 towhich a pair of links 29 is secured. The lower ends of these projecting from a webmember 33 whichunites the uprights 2 and3. The stem 3| supports the plunger assemblage 34' which comprises a head 35 fixedlysecured to the lower end of the stem and to which is removably secured a support 36 which may be attached by meansof bolts 31. Thissupport may readily be removed when desired to permit exchange for another carrying This cam' is provided with a concentric dwell portion 26,

'50 The arm 20 is a plunger of a different size or contour. The plunger 38 projects downwardly from the lower surface of the plate 36, and in the arrangement shown in Figs. 3 and 4 this plunger takes the form of a plate-like member having its right and left surfaces substantially flat and parallel, while it is of more or less V-shape in contour, viewed from the side (Fig. 3). The edges of this plunger member 38 are smoothly rounded as shown at 39 (Fig. 4) so as not to cut or abrade the work.

Beneath the bracket 33 is a second bracket 48 which supports the die assemblage. This bracket has a boss 4| provided with a vertical bore which receives the sliding stem or plunger 42 supporting the die head 43. This plunger 42 is resiliently supported by a spring 44 which rests upon a tubular screw-threaded sleeve 45 having screwthreaded engagement with the lower end of the bore in the boss 4|. A rod 46, passing freely up through the sleeve 45, has threaded connection to the stem 42 and at its lower end is provided with an adjustable stop nut 41. By turning this nut the tension of the spring 44 may be varied as desired. A stud 48 projecting down from the die head 43 into an opening in the bracket 40 prevents the die head from turning horizontally. The die'head preferably is provided with a cavity which receives a heating unit 49 of any desired type, but here shown as electrical and supplied with current through a flexible conductor 50.

The upper part of the die head 43 is shaped to provide the central member 5| (Fig. 4) of the die assemblage. This member 5| preferably is of substantially the same lateral width or thickness as the plunger member 38 and is provided in its upper surface with a depression or recess, of more or less V-shaped contour, viewed from the side (Fig. 3). This recess extends laterally across the entire thickness of the part 5| so that it is open at its opposite sides. The die assemblage also comprises plate-like members 53 and 54 (Fig. 4) which constitute the side walls for this recess. The members 53 and 54 are arranged to slide laterally each on a pair of pins 55, 56, respectively, secured to the central die member 5| forwardly and rearwardly, respectively, of the cavity 52. These pins 55 and 56 are furnished with adjustable nuts 58 and 59 at their outer ends and are surrounded by coil springs 66 and 6|, respectively, which resiliently urge the plates 53 and 54 toward the central member 5| of the die assemblage. The upper edges of the plates 53 and 54, and the upper edge of the central member 5| of the die (forwardly and rearwardly of the cavity 52) are disposed substantially in the same plane to provide a work-supporting surface. This work-supporting surface is preferably extended laterally by means of fixed brackets 62 and 63 secured to the frame of the machine.

In order to hold the work 64 properly in contact with the work-supporting surface during the embossing operation, I may, if desired, provide the plunger head 35 with lateral offsets 65 and 65 (Fig. 4) having openings for rods 61 and 68 provided at their lower ends respectively with resilient presser feet 69 and 10. These feet may be of felt, rubber or the like and are resiliently urged downwardly by means of springs H and i2 interposed between the feet 69 and 10 respectively, and the under surfaces of the parts 65 and 66. Thus the presser feet move downwardly onto the work in advance of the plunger member 38, but

yield as the plunger completes its downward movement. While these presser feet are desirable'to assist the operator in holding the work 64 in position, they may be dispensed with and the operator may hold the work in taut position by means of his fingers. V V

The blank'64 (Fig. 6) is laid upon the worksupporting surface with its rear edge in contact with'a gauge member 15 (Fig. 3) adjustably secured to the upper surface of the central die member 5|. The operator then depresses the rialdown into the die cavity so as to form a depression in the material more or less of the contour indicated in broken lines at 13 in Fig. 6. As the plunger member 38 descends into the cavity 52, the central part of the Work is forced down between the side plates 53 and 54, and the latter, being yieldable, exert a substantially uniform pressure on the material regardless of slight variations in thickness. Moreover, since these members are yieldable it is unnecessary to have the plunger and die so accurately aligned as would otherwise be essential to obtain desirable results.

- When the plunger member 38 has entered the die cavity to its full extent, the roll 24 rides on the dwell 26of the cam 25 during a very considerable portion of the cycle of operation of the machine. --By driving the pulley 5 at proper The presser speed, the plunger may readily be caused to dwell I two secondswhile in operative position,and in this interval the material which has been stretched is subjected to the heat of the die as well as to pressure, both downwardly and laterally.

The material is thus caused to take a permanent set so as to bulge rearwardly, as shown at 13 (Fig. 7) and forma dimple or cavity '13 in its inner surface. By making the die cavity and plunger of proper shape this dimple or cavity in the work may be made of such contour'as substantially to fit the bulge at the rear end of the shoe last whenthe upper is assembled on the latter and thus excessive strains in lasting are avoided. As the cam 25 continues to rotate, the cam roll 24 reaches the release surface 21*, which is of relatively short angular extent so that the plunger is quickly retracted by the action of spring 28*.

In Fig. 8 1 have illustrated a plunger member 38 of a modified horizontal cross-sectional contour "and have shown the die members 5|, 53 and 54 correspondingly shaped. It is obvious that plungers and correspondingly shaped dies of any suitable contour may be employed in accordance with the particular conformation of the dimple or depression which it is desired to make in'the work. 7

While I have herein described one desirable embodiment of the invention by way of example,

1. A machine for preshaping a shoe lining;

employing equivalent ele-.

a I wish it to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited to the precise arrangeterial, said machine comprising a die having spaced relatively movable walls defining a cavity between them, resilientmeans ,yieldably urging. said walls toward each other, said walls having surfaces collectively forming a work support, a plunger for pressing sheet material resting upon the 'work support into the die cavity, the

plunger being of'a width substantially equal to the normal width of the cavity, presser feet operative to hold the sheet material in contact with the work sup-port, and means for moving the plunger into the cavity thereby to force that portion of the sheet material which overliesthe cavity into the latter and'thereby form a bulge in the material. 1 V V 4 3. A machine for preshaping sheet material, said machine comprising a die includinga central member having substantiallyparallel side faces and having a recess in its upper edge, a

pair of relatively movable members constituting opposite side walls for the recess, thereby to define a die cavity, yielding means urging said wallmembers toward the parallel side faces of the central member, a plunger movable into and out' of the recess, said plunger ;being;of a width approximating the normal widthof the die cavity, and means for" moving the plunger out of ,the cavity. 7 4. Amachine for preshaping sheet material comprising a die including a central member having a recess therein, plates disposed respec- .tively at opposite sidesofthe central member and constituting spaced sidewalls for the recess, thereby defining a die cavity, the upper surfaces of the plates and of the central member, respectively, .being disposed in substantially the same plane and constituting awork-supporting surface, springs'urgin'g the respective plates toward the central die member, a plungermovable into and out of thecavity, the advancing end of: the plunger havingrounded edges, and

' plunger actuatingf'meansoperative to move the a withdrawal. 1

5. A machine for preshaping a part of a shoe plunger into the die'cavity and toieauseit to dwell there a predetermined period before its upper, said machine" comprising a 'die including a central member having a recess in its edge, relatively 'movable plates constituting spaced walls for said recess,therebyto define'a die cavity,

independent spring means. urging the respective plates' toward the central member, a plunger movable into and out of the cavity,'the width of the plunger being substantially equal to the ,minimum, distance'between said plates, the advancing end of the plunger having blunt edges, and plunger" actuating mechanism including a rotary cam' having a dwell portion of more than 180 angular extent operative to hold the plunger substantially stationary within the die cavity for a predetermined period, and drive means for said cam including a one-revolution clutch;

into and 6. A machine for. preshaping the heel end of the quarter hning ofv a'shoe, said machine com,-

prising a die having a centralmember provided with substantially parallel sides and with a recess .in its edge, a pair of, side plates normally disposed in contact with the parallel sides,'re-

spectively, of said central member, springs nor;-

mally urging the respective side platestoward the central member, said side plates forming relatively yieldable sidewalls fortherecess, a plunger movable into and out of the recess, the plunger being of sucha'shape and contouras to fit snugly within the recess when thelatter is of normal width, means for moving the plunger into and outof-therecess, andresilient means supporting the die to permit the latter t yield as theplun ger advances into-the recess. j

'7. A machine for preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine com prising a die having acent'ralmember provided with substantially parallel sides and. with a ree cess in its edge, a pair-of side'plates normally disposed in contact with. the parallel sides, re-

spectively, ofsaid central member, springs normally urging the respective side plates toward the central member, said: side plates forming relatively yieldable side walls for the recess, a plunger movable into and out of the recess, the plunger being of such ashape' andcontour as to fit snugly within the recess when. the latter is of normal width, means foriimovingi the plunger intoand out of the recess, yielding means'sup porting the die in opposition to thepressure exerted by the advancing plunger as thelatter, enters the recess,- and means operativeto vary the yielding resistance of the die,

8. A machine for ,preshapi'ngthe heel end the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine comprising a die having a centralmemberprovided with a substantiallyV-shapfed recess, a pair of side members disposed-respectively atopposite sides, of the central membensai'dside members having surfacescoiistituting side walls for the recess, asubstantiallyv-shaped plunger of a. contour substantially similantothat of the recess and of a width substantially equal to 'the normals width of the recess, and' 'actuating means, oper-.

ative to move the plunger ,intoand out of the recess, said actuating. means comprising arotary cam having an active portion 'operative to' move the plunger into the recess, a dwell portion operative to hold the plunger in the recess for' a predetermined timeea release portion following the dwell portion, and spring meansoperat'lve to'retract thepplunger from the recess when released by the cairn 9. A machine for preshapingi'the'heel ena r the quarter lining of a shoe, said machine comprising a die havinga central member provided with a. substantially V-shapedrecess, a'pairof side members disposed respectively at opposite. sides of the central member, said side members ,having surfaces constituting side. wallsfor the recess, a plunger of a contour substantiallysimilar to that of the recess and of a width substam.

tially equal to the normal width of the recess, an adjustably yielding support-for thedia'and plunger actuating means 'operative to advance the plunger into the recess,-,-to cause-the plunger to dwell within the; recess, and-to .retract the plunger from-the recess. a v a I 10. A machinefor'preshaping the heel end of the quarter lining of a shoe, saidmachinecomprising a die having a central member provided a with a substantially V-shaped recess, a pair of relatively movable side ,membersdisposed respec- 15 tively at opposite sides of the central member, said side members having surfaces constituting side walls for the recess, resilient means urging said side members toward each other, a plunger of a contour substantially similar to that of the recess and of a width substantially equal to the normal width of the recess, an actuating lever, means connecting the plunger to the lever, positive means operative to rock the lever in one direction, and yielding means operative to rock the lever in the other direction.

11. A machine for preshaping the heel end of v the quarter lining of a shoe upper, said machine comprising a die having a central member provided with a recess and a pair of side members disposed respectively at opposite sides of said central member, said side members having surfaces constituting side walls for the recess, at least one of said side members being resiliently yieldable away from the central member, the recessed surface of the central member being disposed in substantially the same plane with surfaces of the side members thereby to constitute a work support, a plunger movable into and out of the recess, and work holding means operative to press the work forcibly against the work support as the plunger is advanced into the recess.

12. A machine for shaping sheet material, said terial machine having a die including a. member provided with a recess, the top and. one side at least of said recess being open, a closure member for the open side of the recess, resilient means normally urging the closure member toward the recessed member, retaining means operative to hold the material to be shaped in taut condition spanning the recess, and a plunger operative to force the material into the recess, thereby to stretch the material and to produce a permanent bulge therein.

13. A machine for shaping sheet material, said machine having a die comprising a member provided with a recessed surface, the recess in said surface being open at opposite sides, closure members for the opposite sides of the recess, said closure members and the recessed member having surfaces collectively constituting a work rest for supporting the material so as to span the recess, retaining means engageable with the sheet material at opposite sides of the recess and operative to hold the material firmly against the work rest, and a plunger operative to force the material which spans the recess into the recess, thereby to form a permanent bulge in the ma- BERNARD S. STEINER. 

